Sikkim: Leap of faith and adrenaline at 17,000 feet

When I was amongst the people selected to go up to Gurudongmar Lake in North Sikkim I was exalted. I had to been to Gangtok many a times, but this was the first time I will go to one of the highest lakes in the world and the best part was it was located just 5 kms away from the Indo-China border. 
A bridge in Sikkim

Landslide in Sikkim

North Sikkim




Out of a group of 30 odd people only 15 were declared fit to go to Gurudongmar Lake, located at an altitude of about 17,100 feet. And I was riding high on my experience of having trekked all the way to Siachen Glacier in more inhospitable conditions. So began the journey from Gangtok to Lachen.

We started around 9.30-10 am in a bus for our destination. The road was washed away in many places considering we were travelling in the month of September. But the rain had made the landscape amazingly beautiful. It was green and misty till where your eyes went.

We stopped halfway at an army post to have hot Chai and Matthi!! It was the ultimate bliss in the weather. We finally reached Lachen at around 6.30 pm and it was already dark! Our doctor gave Do’s and Don’ts of the trip – Don’t exert and always be on the lookout for leeches (They were everywhere)!!!

We reached our hotel a nice one situated in an apple orchid. Our welcome happened with a nice complimentary wine to warm us after getting drenched in the drizzle outside. We went to our rooms to get hot water bath. But it is a luxury here where water is scarce. The hotel linen was sent to Gangtok for washing. Anyways I had already spotted few leeches crawling on the floor and I hate the yucky feeling!!
An Apple Orchid in Lachen


I somehow managed to take a bath though there was no warm water. As I was standing outside I suddenly felt something sticking to my leg and as it was a leech!! This sent me in a fit of dancing while a friend of mine actually pulled the leech and three it!! Later I realized it was not the best thing to do as the bleeding did not stop and had to put medicine on it. So that was my first experience of Leeches. In this place beware of them as they fall from trees, crawl in from the ground and every route possible.

Anyway we slipped into bed soon after having dinner as we needed to start early the next day for Gurudongmar Lake. We were forewarned about the arduous journey ahead as there were no paved roads and rain had only added to our miseries. Coupled with this high-altitude can really bog the travelers down.
On way to Gurudongmar lake

Woke up at around 5 am, and my day was made as the window opened towards a lush green mountain with a milky white water fall. Immediately after that we were bundled into gypsies and our journeys kick-started. What I can recall about the journey – the landscape was initially lush green and later it was barren yet beautiful, intermittent rain kept us company, roads were non-existent, it was chilling! We stopped halfway at an Army camp to have our brunch and get our Blood Pressure and Oxygen checked. Only those who passed were okay-ed for the forward journey.


All of us came out with flying colours. Time just flew during 
the 6-7 hours of journey. And finally we reached the Gurudwara on the sides of Gurudongmar Lake maintained by a Sikh regiment of the Army. Legend about the Lake is that the Sikh Guru Guru Nanak had meditated at the place. On the plea of local denizens  he marked an area in the lake with the help of his Dong (the wooden stick) which never freezes even in the peak of winters and hence the name ‘Gurudongmar’.
Gurudongmar Lake



As I removed my shoes before entering the Gurudwara, it was another shocker. Two leeches had sneaked into my shoes and were merrily sucking away my blood! The Deodorant came handy. Doctor immediately sprayed it on my foot and the leech loosened its grip. After spending peaceful time at the Gurudwara it was time for some hospitality by the Army Unit – hot tea and roasted almonds (Virtually godsend)!! Following this we went down to the banks of the lake and mind you at that altitude it can be an arduous task. The water is said to be lucky for couple unable to conceive.


Gurudwara at Gurudongmar



After letting the magnificence of the sight sink in, we headed back to our hotel. The return journey though exhausted us did not stop us from going for a small walk around the Lachen village in drizzling rain…..

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