Russia-Estonia Border: Tale of Two Cities divided by Border

The two cities speak the same language and have had a shared history. But fate threw them on different sides of the border. For Narva and Ivangorod – small towns in Estonia and Russia respectively- the history has been strongly tied to each other as both were part of the erstwhile Soviet Empire. But after Soviet disintegration in 1991 they have been going through different narratives spawned by their respective governments and still maintain sanity in their approach towards each other.

The river Narva dividing the two towns.

Another view of the border

It was for the first time that I crossed a border by foot. Crossing the bridge between Ivangorod and Narva immediately brought the analogy of the border between India and Pakistan (which I have never been able to cross over) in my mind; or if we narrow it down further – that of Indian Occupied Kashmir and Pakistan Occupied Kashmir. Having cross border ties between families, the two cities have not cut down the people to people contact. The socio-economic cooperation is still going strong. This is in complete contrary to India and Pakistan cross border cooperation and beneficial to both sides, the two countries driven by their respective narratives do not want to budge at all. Here is an insight into the cross border cooperation happening in Narva and Ivangorod; and what it takes to be pragmatic in cross border cooperation.

Bridge linking the two towns

Both the towns were destroyed during the World War II and only three people were left alive. Both the towns were re-developed. They got separated in 1991 when Estonia – one of the Baltic States – left the USSR. Families got divided. So much so, Narva still has more than 80 percent of Russian speakers and only 4 percent speak Estonian language. The number of Estonian passport holders in the city is around 46 percent, those with Russian passport form 36 percent of the population and the rest are stateless (There are many who have chosen not to accept any citizenship. To become Estonian citizen one need to pass a language test, a daunting task for many of the old people living in the city.).

The barbed wires at the border

The two countries continue to engage in war of words, with Russia alleging mistreatment of Russian ethnics at the hands of the Estonian government, Estonia portray the USSR as the occupier of their country. Choosing language as the basis of citizenship stems from its quest to differentiate itself from its larger neighbour. The collective memory in the nationalising state is shaped to consider Russia as an enemy. Despite the gulf between the two countries, cooperation at social level continues between two towns.

In this backdrop, are set the relations between Ivangorod and Narva. For border they have a river. But the imposing security paraphernalia like Indo-Pak border is conspicuous by its absence. People have relatives on the other side and can easily visit them. Before 2000, they did not require visa to go to the other side. Things became a bit difficult after Estonia joined the European Union, but the flow of people to and fro is pretty strong. There have been incidents when the tourist guides have relied on their friendships with the border guards to sneak tourists visiting one side to the other side for sometime.

At social level and Municipal level they still cooperate. Speaking of this the Mayor of Ivangorod, Shahrova Tatyana said: “The cross border cooperation has been intensive and uninterrupted.” She was also born in Narva and her parents moved to Ivangorod after 1991. Gestures like celebrating the New Year together and one side giving big gifts to the first baby on the other side. Both sides are rebuilding their historical fortresses on both sides to boost tourism. There are people who live on one side of the border and go to work on the other side.

The complex administrative structure on the Russian side makes cooperation a bit difficult as border security is the federal subject and border cooperation falls under the ambit of municipal authorities.

Cut to India-Pakistan border – one of the most highly controlled borders in the world having very non-liberalised visa policy. While I can understand the animosity between the two countries, I cannot fathom the ugly display of jingoism by the two sides. Shouting at the top of their voices, lifting their feet above their heads and virtually abusing each other- I really do not comprehend what the two sides portray to the thousands of tourists thronging the stands to witness the spectacle. Cross border trade and travel are highly restricted. The two countries barter 21 items, mainly vegetables and fruit across the Line of Control (the de-facto border between the Pakistan-Occupied Kashmir and the Indian Kashmir).