Prelude to Indian Army’s Siachen Trek (Part-I)

Siachen Glacier is far beyond what a common person’s imagination can conjure up. Even though the Indian forces have been braving against the formidable foe of weather and other extremities to hold on to the lofty mountains, when I told my mother that I would be heading to Siachen for a month long expedition being conducted by the Indian Army, her question was if it was in China?

The question left me amused. The Indian Army personnel have been imposing the national will in those frigid heights and not many civilians are aware what it means to be at that height where chocolate bars freezes so hard that it has to be used as stepping stones. I was one of very few civilians, who were to get a chance to experience first-hand how Indian armed forces personnel are overcoming limits to human body at the world’s highest battlefield, even if for a short period of time. I undertook the journey in 2008 and after nearly a decade I am revisiting the journey that changed me.

Pangong Tso on Indo-China border

Beautiful landscape of Ladakh (Nimo)

View from Diskit monastery in Ladakh

The Indian Air Force’s (IAF) giant steel bird IL-76 took us from Chandigarh airbase to Leh, which is one of the highest commercial airports in the world at 10,682 feet. It was here we will set forth on our journey to acclimatise to the weather that can be both enchanting and excruciating at the same time. The lungs had to be accustomed to the lack of oxygen, the brain had to maintain semblance of sense at high altitude, skin has to withstand the chances of either getting sun-burned or having frostbites and blood vessels had to keep the blood pressure within limits. We were advised to get good sun glasses and sunscreen lotion, rest the army was to take care of.

It was my maiden visit to Ladakh and I instantly fell in love with the brown landscape that was beautiful despite its barrenness. We were being given a slow introduction to Ladakh – through day long trip to Pangong Tso (Tso means Lake and this is a story for another day) and an extended stay in Karu where our accommodation was just next to a mighty Indus river. After about a week long acclimatisation in Leh we were to set course for Siachen Base Camp. During the time, every day we had to undergo medical tests that included a gauge on your blood pressure and most of the people had their pressure almost sky rocketing. I hovered around a comfortable 110/80 (normal is 120/80).

Another Postcard from Ladakh

Tip: During this stage, take ample rest as the atmosphere is rarefied and listen to your body. Drink plenty of water it will help in faster acclimatisation.

We traversed the Khardung La (La means pass) that boasts to be the highest motorable road in the world at 18,380 feet. Despite having a military background that took me to various remote places of the country, this was my first experience of seeing and touching snow. At that height one would be foolish to do running around and exhausting the body. Many who reach Khardung La end up taking artificial oxygen at a small medical unit set up by army. So ‘don’t be a gamma in the land of the lama’.

On way to Khardung La

After letting our eyes feast on the breath-taking nature’s bounty, we made our way to North Pulu, the Indian Army prepared a sumptuous meal for us. With enough fire in our belly we made our way to Siachen Base Camp located at the snout of the 76-km long Glacier. We reached around mid-night only to be greeted by snowfall and welcoming army personnel, who asked if we wanted to witness ‘Kalratri’ function- worshiping of Goddess Kali on the 7th day of Navratri. Weary from our long road journey and dazed by the high altitude of the base camp, roughly 12000 feet, we reached our accommodation (a pre-fabricated hut in which if one leaves the Bukhari on the chances of setting it on fire are very high). And boy we slept like a log as next day was going to be long.

Siachen Base Camp

Do you see the small opening that is the snout of the Glacier from where snow melts to form river Nubra

We had to begin our introduction to the basic mountaineering techniques and get used to the clothing that will keep us warm when ‘the Winter Comes’ (with the Game of Throne fever catching up, it was hard to resist the phrase). The troops generally train here for 21 days before they begin the arduous trek to the various posts along the Glacier, the highest being the Bana post at 22,143 feet. The armed forces personnel carry their complete load with them and it takes about a month to reach there. One gets posted to the place for three months as scientists have deduced that three months on the high altitude cuts five years from your life expectancy.

We were not aware of these challenges yet, for us the biggest challenge was to walk in a straight line wearing 4 kg Scarpa trekking shoes. Our first day task was to walk in the base camp to get accustomed to these heavy-weight shoes that have awakened every muscle in our legs. On the second day we were taken to ‘the Wall’ to practice ice-climbing and learn how to use various mountaineering equipment. After the training we were examined on three counts – blood pressure, oxygen level and ECG. Those manage to remain within the permissible limits were allowed to proceed with the trek.

Learning Ice-Craft at "The Wall"

Learning to walk in 4 kg Scarpas at Siachen Base Camp

Siachen literally means a land with abundance of roses

The biggest motivation for me in those unforgiving climates have been the ration of chocolates and dry fruits. Soldiers, who have been posted to those heights for long, lose their appetite leading to severe weight loss. But my metabolism ensured I was always ravenous. And this greediness also made me ignore the advice by my team leader to only carry in the back pack what was required. “Every extra gram would become unbearable at those heights,” were his exact words. I decided to carry as many chocolates as I could besides one litre of juice and one kg of walnuts!

Dangerous and captivating at the same time!

The first hour of the trek was the most treacherous. Tied to a rope with four others, I was cursing my stars for opting for this trek as with each step taken breathing became a task. In that unknown extreme climate, more than half the battle is fought in the mind. I had to kill my doubts or else I knew, I would never be able to complete the trek. Steeling my resolve and hushing my doubts, thus began my awestruck journey through the Siachen Glacier, a marvel of the nature and a bone of contention between India and Pakistan.

(For more information on the itinerary of the trek please visit Siachen Trek: Experience of a lifetime